This was never going to be just another expedition of Zodiac cruises and shore landings. We were taking to the skies; heli-hiking above vast fjords, flightseeing over untouched landscapes, kayaking in extraordinary surroundings, and for a very small number of guests, an optional paid additional activity –  the chance to camp, hosted by welcoming Greenlanders – something rarely offered in the Arctic. What stood out most, though, was the feeling of discovery. Guests and expedition team were exploring together—not simply following a path, but discovering one. At one point, someone asked the guides the name of a waterfall we had just come across; The answer was simple: “We don’t know” – and that said everything.

Camping out on Greenland – a unique experience

Greenland ice-cap – Scott Sinton

Heli-touring from Ultramarine – Scott Sinton

Our home – Ultramarine

We were reaching places that still felt genuinely uncharted, exploring areas that ships and Zodiacs alone could never reach, stepping out into landscapes that felt untouched by tourism – made possible by the ship’s twin-engine helicopters.

Among the many highlights, the helicopter landing on the Greenland Ice Sheet stands out. As the largest ice sheet outside Antarctica, it’s not just impressive in size—it’s overwhelming in presence.  Stepping out onto its surface, there’s was a stillness and scale that’s difficult to describe. No noise, no movement—just ice stretching far beyond what the eye can follow. It’s one of those rare travel moments where everything feels quiet, vast, and deeply humbling.

Greenland makes everything seem small by comparison (Scott Sinton)

The South Greenland Adventure itinerary was unlike anything I had experienced before. And somehow, I have been lucky enough to do it twice. Fast forward to 2025, and Quark Expeditions were now in their fourth season of operating this itinerary. I thought I knew what to expect.

I couldn’t have been more wrong. Many times I have heard Expedition leaders say ‘No two expeditions are ever the same’—and this journey proved it all over again.  In the years since that inaugural voyage, the expedition team had refined the experience. They’ve discovered even more spectacular fjords, and the helicopter program has evolved into something even more impressive.

What I experienced in 2022 felt extraordinary.  By 2025, the experience had been elevated (excuse the pun) yet again— helicopters landing in even more breathtaking locations, with sweeping views over glaciers and valleys that felt almost unreal.

What has remained constant is the spirit of the journey.  This is a trip for travellers drawn to wild places—those who value experience over names in an itinerary, and who appreciate the privilege of exploring somewhere that is still truly remote.  In many ways it says what expedition cruising is all about – discovery.

It is also a journey that meets you where you are. There are gentle, contemplative walks for those who prefer to slow down and take it all in, moderate hikes for guests wanting a little more, and for the energetic, the aptly named “chargers”—fast-paced outings led by the expedition team for those keen to push themselves just that little bit further.

And for photographers, Greenland is almost unfair in its beauty.  It is genuinely difficult to take a bad photograph here (but don’t tell that the on-board photographer) . The light, the scale, the icesheet, the water, the contrast of wildflowers against dark rock and glaciers—it all comes together in a way that feels cinematic at every turn.

The South Greenland Adventure itinerary was unlike anything I had experienced before. And somehow, I have been lucky enough to do it twice. Fast forward to 2025, and Quark Expeditions were now in their fourth season of operating this itinerary. I thought I knew what to expect.

I couldn’t have been more wrong. Many times I have heard Expedition leaders say ‘No two expeditions are ever the same’—and this journey proved it all over again.  In the years since that inaugural voyage, the expedition team had refined the experience. They’ve discovered even more spectacular fjords, and the helicopter program has evolved into something even more impressive.

What I experienced in 2022 felt extraordinary.  By 2025, the experience had been elevated (excuse the pun) yet again— helicopters landing in even more breathtaking locations, with sweeping views over glaciers and valleys that felt almost unreal.

What has remained constant is the spirit of the journey.  This is a trip for travellers drawn to wild places—those who value experience over names in an itinerary, and who appreciate the privilege of exploring somewhere that is still truly remote.  In many ways it says what expedition cruising is all about – discovery.

A visit to the small community of Aappilattoq—home to just over 100 people—offered a completely different perspective on Greenland.

We spent several hours here, warmly welcomed by locals who spoke with quiet pride about their way of life. In this remote corner of the world, life is still shaped by the land and sea, with traditions of Inuit culture continuing through everyday moments. This was not a staged or mass-market experience, it’s genuine.

The village came together for our visit: the church choir sang, and we were invited to take part in a Kaffemik—a traditional Greenlandic gathering of coffee, baked goods, and conversation, where stories are shared and community is at the centre of it all. We finished our visit with the annual Expedition vs Aappilattoq soccer match – with mixed teams of Greenlandic kids, expedition team and guests taking part.

What makes South Greenland so compelling, though, is not just how beautiful it is. It is the sense that even now, in a world that feels increasingly explored, there are still places that can surprise you.

Southern Greenland is less about wildlife – more about wild and magnificent landscapes and Greenlandic communities.  AND – very occasionally you get to see Arctic wildlife – the image on the left perfectly shows the excitement of the moment